TL;DR: To make a porcelain vase, you shape high-fired clay (kaolin-based) on a wheel or by hand, let it dry to leather-hard, then trim and assemble. After a bisque firing, you glaze it and fire it again at over 2,300°F to achieve the translucent, glass-like finish that defines porcelain.
Materials & Preparation
Porcelain is not ordinary clay—it contains kaolin, feldspar, and quartz, which gives it its white, translucent quality. Purchase a commercial porcelain body (e.g., cone 10 or cone 6) to avoid the headache of mixing your own. You will also need: a pottery wheel or a turntable, a wire cutter, wooden ribs, a sponge, a needle tool, a trimming tool, a bat, and a kiln. Before you start, wedge the clay thoroughly to remove air pockets—porcelain is unforgiving with trapped air, which causes explosions in the kiln.
If you want to dig deeper, check out our guide on DIY Porcelain Vase Tutorial: Step-by-Step Guide.
Step 1: Center and Open the Clay
Place a 1–2 pound ball of wedged porcelain on the wheel. Wet your hands, then press down firmly while the wheel spins at medium speed until the clay is perfectly centered—no wobble. Once centered, press your thumbs into the center to create a hole, leaving a 1/4-inch thick base. Open the hole gradually to your desired diameter; for a vase, keep it narrow if you want a tall neck.
Step 2: Pull the Walls
With the wheel at slow-medium speed, use your fingers (one inside, one outside) to squeeze the clay upward. Start from the bottom and pull upward in a steady, even motion. Porcelain is stiffer than stoneware, so keep your hands well-lubricated but not dripping. Pull the walls to about 1/4-inch thickness. For a vase shape, flare the bottom, narrow the middle for a waist, and then widen the lip—or keep it cylindrical for a classic form. Stop before the clay becomes too thin; porcelain collapses easily when overworked.
Step 3: Shape and Smooth the Neck
Once your walls are up, shape the rim with a wet sponge to create a clean, even lip. If you want a flared neck, gently press outward from the inside with a curved rib. Use a needle tool to cut the vase off the bat, then lift it carefully onto a ware board. Let it dry to the “leather-hard” stage—firm but still damp enough to carve—usually 2–4 hours covered with plastic.
Step 4: Trim and Assemble (If Adding a Foot or Handle)
When leather-hard, invert the vase and center it on the wheel using a chuck or padded bat. Trim the base to create a foot ring, and smooth the transition between foot and body. If you want handles, roll a coil of the same porcelain, score the attachment points with a needle tool, apply slip (watered-down porcelain), and press the handle on. Let the vase dry slowly under plastic for 3–5 days, then completely air-dry for another 2 days—porcelain must be bone-dry before firing.
Step 5: Bisque Fire
Fire the dry vase in a kiln to cone 04 (about 1,940°F) for the bisque firing. This makes the porcelain porous enough to accept glaze but strong enough to handle. Cool the kiln slowly to avoid cracking. After bisque, inspect for any cracks or pinholes—sand them smooth with fine grit sandpaper.
Step 6: Glaze and Glaze Fire
Apply glaze using a brush, dip, or pour method. Porcelain glazes are often translucent or celadon to show off the white body. Avoid thick application at the base—wipe a 1/4-inch strip of glaze off the bottom to prevent sticking to the kiln shelf. Fire the glazed vase to cone 6–10 (2,230–2,340°
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